A Love Note to San Miguel
I had the pleasure of spending the holidays in San Miguel de Allende. I have been trying to get there for years, but one thing or another always got in the way. I have honestly heard so many great things about San Miguel, that I was a little concerned it had been over hyped and that it could never live up. I have to say this could not be further from the case. I could not be more in love with a place than this. It is an incredibly gorgeous little oasis of a town, built of beautiful hidden homes and cobblestone streets and the most exquisite landscaping you can ever imagine. It is perfectly simple and complex at the same time and just so beautiful. We spent many afternoons just strolling the streets and discovering.
We did a few excursions that did not disappoint either. The first was a horseback ride. We have done this in many Central and South American countries and have, for the most part, been unimpressed with the landscape or the decrepit animals or the guides. Coyote Canyon Adventures was just the opposite. We were met by our guide, Federico, and driven out to the property where the horses live. The horses were healthy and lively and clearly well taken care of. We rode in the most beautiful landscape (think mini Grand Canyon) on very spry horses lead by cowboys who were so much fun to ride with. They let us gallop through the river and it was in the most beautiful setting.
Another truly incredible experience was the sunrise hot air balloon ride. WOW. I am terrified of heights, but this was not to be missed. I was never afraid and the guides were incredibly knowledgeable and fun to be with. It was COLD. Bundle up for the sunrise ride, but it warmed up as we went up. It was a steady ride over incredibly beautiful terrain and made for a very special outing with Globo. Highly recommend.
We also took a Mexican ancestry cooking class with Marilau. The other people in the class wanted to make mole, so when I made the reservation she let me know that was the option for that day. I was honestly not crazy excited because I have only ever tasted mole once or twice and I really did not like it. It was a thick gloppy black color and the flavor just never appealed to me. Marilau was very serious about real Mexican cooking done by the rules. At first it was intimidating, but with her guidance, her method made a ton of sense and allowed for a super complex flavored mole that was ABSOLUTELY DELICIOUS. I am going to attempt to make it now that I am back home, but we shall see if I can recreate the gloriousness that was her mole. As Marilau explained, this is not a dish to whip up on a weeknight or even for a dinner party. It is a labor of love that takes time and the depth of flavor you get when you cook it is incredible. Oddly enough the other couple who was in the class was also in jewelry. Nick is in piercing jewelry, manufacturing and designing for big names in the piercing world. It was great to meet him and I was thrilled that they had chosen mole as the dish to cook. I would have never tried it otherwise.
The remainder of the trip was spent meandering through the streets popping into little shops and markets and churches just soaking in the beautiful and culture. Because I has heard from so many people about San Miguel, I honestly thought there would be lots of Americans there. I did not find this to be the case. I am not sure if it was more populated with Mexican tourists because it was Christmas, but we heard very little English. It was refreshing to know San Miguel is still a bit of a hidden gem.
I cannot speak highly enough of this little town. I would go back there in a skinny minute. Maybe with a group of friends, so I could focus more on the art and galleries. I can't wait to return!
xx Jane
EAT: RYOKO (yummy sushi and the nicest staff) | AMA POLA (best healthy breakfast enchiladas + dirty chai) | CASA NOSTRA | The MOLE FROM MARILAU'S (best authentic Mexican meal we ate the whole trip by far)
DO: COYOTE CANYON ADVENTURES | GLOBO SUNRISE HOT AIR BALLOON | MARILAU MEXICAN ANCESTRY COOKING SCHOOL
We never made it to the Casa Dragones tasting room, but heard that is cool.
Insider tip: San Miguel is very hilly and all of the streets are cobblestone. Bring comfortable shoes! I wore my Jamie Haller loafers and vejas the whole trip. I could not be more obsessed with my loafers. They have been on repeat non-stop and they just get better and better the more I wear them. I love them with skirts or denim or dresses. They are an all time fave shoe.
